The enclosure is born out of MDF board cut to size on a table saw. There is some careful planning here
to make sure all same-length cuts are done at the same time, and with some thought as to how
each panel will be joined together. Thus some cuts are precise and some slightly over-sized
(the side panels) which are due to be trimmed after being attached.
The baffles are done first, starting with the rebate.
Diver cutout complete using a DIY router jig.
The first three sides glued together. Before attaching the sides, M4 insert nuts are tapped into all
the holes. I find these far superior to regular T-nuts.
Four insert nuts are tapped into the base of the enclosure. The feet will screw into here.
The bracing, which is comprised of two shelves, is designed to couple all the sides and both driver and passive together. The scheme was
modified from the conceptual design after getting a better idea of the internal spacing and relative thickness of the braces.
The bracing needs to be precise. Measurements are taken with the drivers installed. I find a caliper and a sharp
scoring instrument essential for marking out the required cuts.
The essential cuts are done using a router with a straight guide, and always undercut and shaved down a little at a time
until the fit is perfect.
The result is a tight fitting brace cut to high tolerance.
The drivers and amp are installed to ensure everything slots in correctly.
Another shot of the installed components and bracing.
The driver is jammed tight against the horizontal brace.
The passive is jammed tight against the vertical brace.
Front side of the completed enclosure. All six sides attached and edges trimmed
off with a router and flush trim bit. Front and rear panels rounded over. The empty enclosure weights 8.8Kg.
Rear side (amplifier end) of the completed enclosure.
Another view of the completed enclosure.